Salzburg is an affair of the heart. Romance with music, with the Salzach, with the baroque architecture, with the Apfel Strüdel and how I was to have an affair with the city over my time there! I arrived late evening in Salzburg three hours after having taken the train from Innsbruck. The wide green pastures and towering Alps had given away to crowded landscapes and hillocks. I took the opportunity to first witness the city by night. The change in the scene was immediate.